trb in sept-oct 2023: the easiest green beans
+ a last-minute thanksgiving round-up, some news, and baroo!
Well, if these are really supposed to be updates on what’s happening over here in the Bowl household, I think I should start with a big one. Whew, what a ride it’s been. I’m still processing all of my emotions about it—happiness, relief, a little disbelief, a lot of excitement, but, on the eve of Thanksgiving, I am mostly just overwhelmingly grateful. Especially, as always, for B2. I know it’s often said but I don’t think it is often truly comprehended how much your loved ones have to take on when you make a push for something like this. He is the glue that kept our household running, he talked me through all the stress and every crisis—he was the first person to believe that I could do this, and he never once stopped. I never do a great job of putting into words how lucky I am to have him, but I’m really feeling it these days. And I’m thrilled for what’s next!
As for food developments these past few months, well, you know now why there hasn’t been too much. We had a long-awaited celebration dinner at baroo yesterday, which was every bit as wondrous, inventive, and exquisite as we expected.
and Kwang Uh are talents of a generation and if you are in LA, you must go.And I’ve included a little a round-up of old tried-and-true recipes in case you’re looking for last-minute Thanksgiving inspiration, plus the pared-down green beans I’ve been making every year for the last few years. It’s a vegetarian version of the ground pork and green beans from my cookbook, and it works perfectly as a side when you’ve got a busy table of other dishes on Thanksgiving.
Hope you all have lovely holidays if you are celebrating.
a thanksgiving round-up
THE EASIEST GREEN BEANS
or what you need when you realize you forgot to figure out what to bring. serves 6-8 as a side, perfect to make ahead and takes 30 minutes start to finish.
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil or other neutral oil ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon black pepper 1 pound green beans, ends removed and snapped into 2 to 3-inch pieces (French green beans work very nicely here) ¼ cup chicken stock 1 small onion, sliced (or 2-3 shallots) 1-2 tablespoons oyster sauce
Heat a wok or large saucepan over high heat until very hot. Add 1-2 tablespoons of oil and swirl around the pan. Add the salt and black pepper to the oil, then the green beans, which should sizzle loudly as they hit the wok. Toss the beans vigorously with a spatula for 2-3 minutes, until oil coats the beans evenly and they begin to turn a brighter green. Add the chicken stock, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cover. Let steam for 3 minutes.
Remove the cover and turn the heat back to medium-high. Beans should be bright green but not yet tender. Add the sliced onions and stir again until well-combined. Reduce heat once more to medium-low and cover again for another 5-8 minutes, or until beans are tender. Add the oyster sauce (you may want to start with less, as it’s quite salty) and toss until well-coated. Adjust seasonings to taste. Keeps very well—reheat in the oven or microwave when needed.
Last year, aka the year I learned that red onions will turn blue when cooked with something alkaline. Is oyster sauce alkaline? Someone in the know, chime in.
savory
sweet
the next day
baroo
And a whole section of this missive devoted to our celebration dinner at baroo. I can’t think of a better way to have celebrated partnership than at Mina and Kwang’s perfect and magical new venture.
Dan hobak, ssanghwacha cappuccino, seed puff. Warm, creamy, and a little fall-spiced.
Red yeast makgeolli, nduja, gouda, pichuberry. Super savory.
Hokkaido scallop, minari, gim, rice puff. I loved this—the little zing from the minari felt like a nostalgic little callback to baroo 1.0’s herby bowls.
Parae-battered skate, gim gochunaengi, seabuckthorn, ssam. This ssam is the best thing I have eaten in a long time. Piping-hot skate in a light, crispy batter, a spicy aioli, and cool and crunchy herbs and lettuce—we are still dreaming about it.
Soy-braised wild black cod, dongchimi, lemongrass, buttermilk, green papaya. Buttery and complex and spicy.
Our second favorites—wild mountain greens rice, ggaennip maesil jangajji, xo sauce, gametae bugak, with galbi-marinated short rib, burdock jus, baek kimchi panfried in perilla seeds, and ssam.
Pork collar, goulash jjigae, baek kimchi, ssam. This white kimchi with perilla was incredible. Also, a terrible shot of the drinks, but the non-alcoholic pairings were like you would not believe! This was a beet and coffee “Pinot” that made me like beet for the first time in my life. They are all kombucha-based, and there was also a creamy guava-fig concoction, a melon one, apple, and a “rosé” that was what I always wish wine actually tasted like.
And chamoe panna cotta, misugaru ice cream, French sorrel bingsoo. A cap to a perfect date night.
Hope you are all taking care. Happy holidays to those who celebrate.
Congrats on making partner!! I have no clue about the process but it sounds like maybe equivalent to getting tenure for a junior professor. Hope you can take a little bit of a break and bask a little and enjoy life and food and family! Congrats again!!